Make sure you are watering your lawn, trees and shrubs through the winter. Before your sprinkler system is turned on follow these simple guidelines. Water only when air and soil temperatures are above 40 degrees. Apply water at midday so it has time to soak in before any possible freezing at night. Take a hose and sprinkler and water your lawn. Try to apply one inch of water if time and temperatures allow. You can check this by putting out small containers and monitoring them until they reach an inch or better. Trees and shrubs will do better with a small trickle from a hose. A rule of thumb is for every inch of trunk diameter, apply ten gallons. For shrubs, try to apply five gallons per shrub twice a month. This will drastically reduce chances of winter damage to your landscape.
The best time to water your lawn is between 10 pm and 6 am. You are more likely to have less wind which will reduce the risk of poor coverage. In the spring try to water about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. During the hot dry months increase the amount to 2 to 2 1/2 inches. Your lawn will let you know as well. Look for signs of wilting and blueish gray areas of the turf which are signs of dehydration (picture). During hot dry periods, it is very beneficial to run your system for a few minutes during the middle of the day to lower soil temperatures if possible. With watering restrictions affecting a lot of our customers, make sure in the spring that your heads are getting 100% coverage.
We recommend Sprinklers Inc. (719) 481-1216
The single most detrimental factor we face at Curb Appeal is mowing injury (picture). Keep your lawn length at a minimum of three inches. When we start to get into the hotter months, increase your height. The easiest way to explain this is to go outside and stand in the direct sun. You feel the heat and start to “wilt”. When you step back into the shade you instantly feel better. Your lawn feels the same way. By keeping your lawn tall, you shade the plant and it requires less moisture and becomes a lot more resistant to dehydration problems. Dull mower injury is our nightmare. A couple of days after you mow, check the tips of the grass blades. If they are brown and ragged then you must sharpen your blade. Do not go off of the last time you sharpened your blade. Check each time after you have mowed. Dull mower blade injury causes more problems with growth and disease than just about any factor we deal with. If you are using a mowing company it is very likely they will try to convince you that shorter mowing height is better. For them it is. Easier on their equipment and quicker cuts. Not your lawn. KEEP IT TALL.
Now is the time to hand rake your lawn. Raking up debris will increase spring green up and over all health and appearance. There are seldom times when power raking your lawn is required. I am not a huge fan of power raking. If it is done at the right time and before the lawn greens up, then it can be very beneficial. Power raking after green up causes far more damage to your turf than benefits. I tend to see most power raking completed way past spring green up which potentially damages the crown and blade of the plant.
Be sure to keep an eye out for mite damage. It occurs fast and can damage large areas of your lawn. We are expecting mites to be a big problem this spring due to the dry winter we have experienced. Pay close attention to south and south west facing areas of your lawn. Look for browning along any refective areas such as your house and/or buildings. Also, pay close attention around your trees and shrubs in the lawn. Normally you will notice the damage within ten feet of these plants and structures. If you notice any of these signs, contact our office immediately.
This disease normally follows wet periods in the spring. It is also common during dry hot periods followed by rainy conditions. This disease is a common problem with Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescue and Perennial Ryegrass. The symptoms are uniform bleaching out of small to large patches of lawn, which can develop rapidly (overnight). The disease begins at the leaf tip as small purplish to dark brown lesions, and progresses toward the middle, but does not usually kill the grass crowns or roots. Remember, usually we have seen the disease completely kill large areas of turf. If the disease is caught at the beginning of its cycle it is easily controlled.
Necrotic Ring Spot is by far the toughest disease we deal with. It is a soil borne disease that attacks the root structure and inhibits its ability to uptake nutrients and moisture. This disease first appears as thinned, circular patches that are yellow to light green in color, approximately 4 to 15 inches in diameter. These patches will normally expand up to 3 feet. The roots and rhizomes of the affected turf turn brown to black. This disease will eventually develop a "frog-eye" pattern in your lawn. This disease thrives during drought conditions. Along with fungicides, aerating to relieve compacted soils is recommended. Some other tips are to raise your mowing height above 3 inches. Use high amounts of phophorous and potash in your fertilization program. Minimize the amount of shade in diseased area. Lightly irrigate infected turf midday to lower soil temperatures. Avoid drought stress. Last but not least overseed with resistant varieties of seed. Curb Appeal can help you with all of these practices. We have a guarantee with Necrotic Ring Spot that if we do not have it completely controlled within a certain time frame, we will continue to treat at no charge until we do. The time frame depends on the severity of the disease.
We will leave you detailed information on your invoice each time we treat your lawn. For watering, allow the products to dry.
Normally a few hours afterwards and you can water your lawn. We prefer that you water in the application before you mow.
As indicated above, we will always leave you detailed information on your invoice. It will always state how long to stay off treated areas. 99% of the time it is one hour. We use only the safest and most effective materials available. For lawn treatments, stay off your lawn for one hour. For tree treatments, stay away until the products have dried. Remember you will more than likely still smell the product, but after it has dried it is safe to go around your trees. Keep in mind that most products will carry an offensive smell to them. This is commonly added to products to alert people they have been treated. It does not mean that they are more dangerous than other materials. After one hour or the product has dried, it is safe for anyone/pets to return to these areas.
If you have further questions regarding the tips explained above, please do not hesitate to contact our office.
Leaf Scorch is very common in our Colorado landscapes during summer months. Some of the varieties affected by Scorch are Ash, Elm, Maple and Oaks and other species of trees and shrubs. Street side trees are very vulnerable. Scorch will normally start to show up after periods of dry weather with high winds. Newly planted trees and shrubs are especially prone to Scorch. You will also see it related to any type of trunk or root injury. Leaf Scorch starts with browning of the leaf margins and then progreeses inward between the leaf veins. Basically Leaf Scorch is the inability of the plant to supply the leaf enough water at critical times.
We are noticing a lot of literature on our customers doors regarding lawn polymers. Polymers are a wonderful product if applied to the first four to six inches of soil before the lawn is installed. After you have an established lawn, polymers are a waste of money to apply. If applied to your lawn after aeration, what few actually end up falling into the holes do not and will not give you the benefits you are expecting. Please stay away from these adds and save yourself some money and frustration. If you are wanting to help your lawn through these drought conditions, order a wetting agent.
When choosing a lawn and tree care service for treatment there is one very important thing to keep in mind. Make sure that the company that you are choosing is licensed by the Colorado Department of Agriculture. This is a simple phone call (303-239-4146) Plant Industry. El Paso County has one of the highest rate of infractions from non licensed company's. There are many company's using licensed and insured loosely. Meaning they have a business license, not a license to treat your landscape. You have to take a test from the Colorado Department of Agriculture. This test covers extensively your knowledge in the categories such as turf or trees. When you find a company that is licensed you can rest assured that you have hired someone that is experienced and competent. It is illegal to treat weeds or insects e.t.c. "for hire" without a license. Also ask the person or technician that is treating your property if they are licensed and his or her experience. An employee can legally treat your landscape if the manager / supervisor has a license. Keep in mind though he or she might only have a few weeks experience. All of Curb Appeals technicians are licensed Qualified Supervisors. Which is the highest license you can hold.
Two great sites to visit for additional information are:
Please feel free to call us at anytime with any question or concern that you might have.
I have used both Tru Green and Lawn Doctor in the past. You guys are heads and shoulders above them. customer ...
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